Choosing the Right Glove
Choosing the correct MMA gloves can be somewhat confusing because there are so many different types available. The best way to avoid any confusion is learn the main types of MMA gloves.
There are three main categories for gloves:
1. Sparring Gloves:
Sparring gloves are designed specifically for protecting MMA fighters and are used only during practice bouts. Sparring gloves have more padding than other gloves. It is very important that you buy gloves that clearly state that it is suitable for sparring; check the label and description thoroughly. If you get the wrong gloves, you can seriously injure your sparring partner. There are two types of sparring gloves: (A) ones that look like traditional MMA gloves and have individual fingers slots and (B) gloves that have a large padded striking area and finger loops.
2. Bag/Boxing Gloves:
These gloves are cushioned to protect the MMA fighter against the increasingly heavier forces of striking heavy bags and striking pads. These gloves have increased wrist support and more compact and dense padding. Some bag gloves may have a grip bar built into the glove. Remember: do not hit a heavy bag unless wearing the proper bag gloves, and do not use the bag gloves for sparring or you will injure your partner.
3. Fight Gloves:
These gloves are also designed to protect MMA fighters, but have a lot less padding than sparring gloves. Fight gloves are designed for real competition. Some MMA sparring gloves can be used for fighting, but many of them are 5 ounces and larger and may not be legal for MMA competition. Check with your fight organization. Fight gloves are usually 4 oz, and they have little to no padding. Do not use fight gloves on heavy bags as you can seriously injure yourself due to lack of padding and support in fight gloves.
Hand Wraps: Frequently Asked Questions
Q. Why do I need hand wraps?
A. Hand wraps help protect the bones and tendons in your hands, and they will help support your wrist and thumb. To help prevent injuries, always wrap your hands before using any type of boxing glove or bag gloves. Make sure you have hand wraps handy when you are trying on boxing gloves or bag gloves that you are thinking about purchasing.
Q. What types of hand wraps are available?
A. Hand wrap size: The most common sizes are 120" and 180". When you have smaller hands you shoulder consider buying shorter wraps. If your hand wraps are too long they will be cumbersome and you will have to make extra revolutions around your hand. This will hamper the fit of your glove. Hand wraps are also available in junior and women's sizes.
Hand wrap style:
1) Traditional cotton herringbone hand wraps have been around a long time. They do not stretch. Traditional cotton hand wraps are reusable and should be washed after each use if possible.
2) Elastic or "Mexican style" hand wraps are a modern day version of a gauze bandage hand wrap that was often made in Mexico. Elastic hand wraps have some stretch to them and tend to be more comfortable. This wrap is also washable and reusable.
3) Gauze bandage hand wraps are often used by professionals with a combination of sports tape. It is recommended that if you use them, you should have someone who can help you put them on and tape them up properly so you will get the most protection.
Q. Are hand wraps all I need?
A. Many people like to use extra protection besides their hand wraps. Sometimes they add cotton padding along the knuckle line and then wrap their hands over that. There are cardio wraps that have extra padding built in to the wrap that is designed to give you some protection instead of a hand wrap.
Q. How do I take care of my hand wraps?
A. Make sure you buy multiple pairs of hand wraps because they should be washed and rolled up after each use. When you roll them up, start rolling at the end or where the Velcro enclosure is. If you roll them up correctly your finger loop should be hanging loosely at the end and you can just tuck it in before putting the wraps in your gym bag.
Hand Wrapping Methods
Hand injuries side line more fighters than any other injury. Because there are so many small bones in your hand, it is absolutely imperative that you take every precaution available to protect them. Proper hand wrapping is the best method of preventing an injury that could keep you out of this great sport.
Step 1
Your hand should be held open in a relaxed position, with your fingers spread apart. Begin by placing the hand wrap thumb loop around your thumb and be sure that the 'This Side Down' text on the hand wrap is against your skin. Bring the wrap across the back of your hand and wrap around your wrist 2 or 3 times.
Be sure to wrap high enough (2" to 3" up from your wrist joint) on the wrist to maximize support. You want to keep the hand wrap snug throughout this process, but not so tight that it will cut off your circulation.
Step 2
From the wrist, bring the wrap across the back of your hand and around your palm, then across the top of your knuckles.
Step 3
Wrap around the knuckle area 2 to 3 times. From the top of your knuckles, wrap across the back of your hand toward your wrist and around. This will create an 'x' pattern across the back of the hand. Repeat the 'x' pattern 2 or 3 times.
Step 4
Continue around the palm of your hand to the base of your thumb. Wrap completely around your thumb and back toward your wrist on the palm side of your hand. It is important to keep the wrap from twisting while wrapping the thumb.
Step 5
Continue wrapping around the back of your hand to the thumb and once again wrap around your thumb, this time from the opposite direction.
Step 6
Wrap from the thumb over the back of your hand and around your wrist.
Step 7
Continue around your wrist, over the back of your hand and through the space between your pinky and ring fingers. Wrap around your palm back toward your wrist and repeat the steps for each finger. Be sure to keep the wrap as flat as possible and twist free.
Step 8
With the last finger completed, bring the wrap across the palm back toward your wrist.
Step 9
Continue wrapping across the back of your hand toward your knuckles.
Step 10
Wrap once more around the top of the knuckles and across the back of your hand toward your wrist.
Step 11
Secure your wrist with the remaining hand wrap. Be sure to wrap it snugly to provide support for your wrist.
Step 12
Fasten the Hook & Loop closure and you're done. The finished product should be a secure and protected tightly wrapped hand.
Choosing the Right Gi
Bad Boy Standard Jiu Jitsu Gi Single Weave
100% Cotton single weave fabric. Jacket features one piece fabric - no seams in the back. Jacket and pants have reinforced double stitched seams. Drawstring waist with gusseted crotch and reinforced knee. Set includes jacket and pants. Colors: White and Blue. Sizes: White - Kids M00 - M3, Adult - A2 - A6. Blue: Adult sizes only.
Century Jiu-Jitsu Gi Single Weave
Single weight uniform is 15 oz. and constructed from 100% cotton. It features reinforcement on key stress points and a tapered body and sleeves for a close fit. The pants include a drawstring waist and reinforced knees. Colors: White or Blue Sizes: 150CM-220CM
Atama Kimono Gi Single Weave Bleached
Lightweight, but strong. Great for hot weather training. Durable for training or competition. Tapered body and sleeves to leave less for your opponent to grab and cut roomy in the shoulders for mobility. Made of 100% cotton.
Gi Care
A gi will last a few years when treated with respect. Following these suggestions will help you maintain your equipment in first class order.
New Gi Preparation Procedure:
1. Open the gi and put it on a hanger for a day or two prior to washing. This allows the fabric to relax after being compressed, folded and packaged for so long. To wash a gi in this condition may actually cause the gi to shrink in an atypical fashion.
2. Prior to putting the gi in a washer make sure the detergent is completely dissolved in the water. Do not bleach. Over time, bleaching can severely weaken the uniform material, causing it to rip easily.
3. Turn the gi inside out and wash alone, in cold water on the gentle cycle. Only wash your gi in hot water if you need it to shrink rapidly because it is too large. Do not wash the belt, ever!
4. Immediately remove the gi when the wash cycle is done and hang it to dry. You can place in dyer on medium heat, if necessary. Iron on low heat if needed.
For Colored Gi:
1. A colored gi will fade and/or lose its color over time. Presoak the gi in warm water with half a cup of salt for 1-2 hours. Make sure salt is completely dissolved before adding the gi. This will help set the dye and decrease future color fading.
2. When washing the gi, use a color guard to stop the colors running into the patches. Bear in mind that if you use a tumble dryer, it will create marbling in the fabric (i.e. little streaks which are a bit lighter than the rest).
3. Do not use vinegar as a salt substitute. Vinegar is acidic and can cause unnecessary wear on the gi fabric.
*If you do not have the time to properly maintain the gi due to frequent use, then considered owning more than one. If you are involved in tournaments, consider keeping a relatively new gi for this and 1 or 2 practice gi's.
Speed Bag Parts
Bag Size:
Large Bags (Sizes: 13x10, 12x10, 11x8): These are made by only a few companies. They are slower and easier to control and therefore are highly recommended for beginners. They build strength and power and they create heavier pounding rebounds and require a stronger reinforced board, preferably 36 inches. The large bags may also extend past a 24 inch board.
Medium Bags (Sizes: 10x7, 9x6): Medium bags are the middle ground of speed and ability. They take some experience to control.
Small Bags (Sizes: 8x5, 7x4, 6.5x4): Very fast and demand excellent control of punching power and swinging speed. NOT recommended for beginners.
Boards:
Often called the "drum", the size is determined by the circumference. Standard sizes are 24 inches up to 36 inches. Small 24 inch boards are normally found in economy home units. Larger ones are found in gyms or high use health clubs. The best boards have some type of height adjust method, so you can raise or lower it to properly position the bag for the user.
Swivels:
The swivel is the middle part of the setup and is the main part that provides bag movement. The swivel base attaches to the board and a movement portion attaches to the bag. There are three types of swivels:
Ball Hook: The oldest and simplest design, there are no any swivel parts or connections to influence the bag rebound. The best of these have two parts-a base connection which attaches to the board, and an action part which connects to the bag. Avoid single piece ball-hooks, since the metal housing can wear over time and the ball will fall out. The ball-hook is the noisiest swivel but provides a clean fast reaction.
Chain-Link: Has one or more links of chain in the design. Quieter than the ball hook, but more difficult to attach to the bag.
Newer Speed Bar Design: These may be one or two piece construction, with ball bearings for movement and a bar to attach the bag. Quiet and fast, but the bag can "slide" along the "float" on it and interfere with the rebound angle or bag speed.
Speed Bag Setup:
Years ago, in the more golden age of boxing and the outdoor camps, the speed bag was suspended in the middle of its own ring. The boxer could then have 360 degree movement around it. But when most training facilities moved indoors the speed bag ring was lost and it was moved to a wall. Unfortunately, this eliminated the full degree of movement and footwork capability. It also produced a classic "facing front" speed bag punching stance which is not optimum for self defense. Today speed bag setups come in two styles, either attached to a wall or a free standing frame.
Wall Units:
Wall units usually attach to a wall, but may be modified to attach to a support column or perhaps an overhead support system. The main thing is they are very stable and are fixed to that location. There are several choices for wall units depending on sizes, styles and price.
Economy Equipment:
These types of setups are the lowest in cost, require the least amount of wall space and are the lightest in weight. They come in two styles, with and without a height adjustment slot. Usually they come with a light weight 24 inch diameter rebound board. They are best for the home environment or location where only a few people will be punching the bag and a lot of height adjustment is not needed. For most bedroom or finished wall setups, it is recommended to create a two or three strip wall frame of light lumber (1x4 boards) and attach the speed bag vertical mounts to the wood rather than directly to the wall. For cement or cinder block walls, it is recommended to place horizontal wood runners on the wall (with proper attaching hardware for the wall surface) and attach the brackets of the speed bag unit to the wood.
Heavy Duty/Professional:
These units are larger in size and heavier, with a 36 inch board. They are made for heavier duty and are best for high use areas, such as boxing gyms, martial art schools or health clubs. Several styles and brands are available with a wide variety of prices.
Free Standing Frames:
Free standing frames are stands that sit on the floor. These are often used in areas where there is no place or desire for a wall attachment. They can be moved around easily and can be used in apartments or rental homes and may adjust higher or lower than a wall unit. They are much less stable than a wall unit and require some type of stabilization, by either weights on the board or floor pod, or straps. It is best to have them placed next to a wall to reduce creep.
Speed Bag Training
Bag Tips:
To determine the proper inflation level, pump until all the wrinkles are out of the leather and the bag is smooth. Then add one or two more pumps. You should be able to gently squeeze the inflated bag and push the leather in slightly.
Repairing or changing the air bladder inside the bag is difficult but do-able. If possible, purchase several bladders at the same time so that if one fails you have another to try.
Keep the outer leather covering dry and use conditioning cream if the leather cracks.
For the beginner the smallest of the largest size (11x8) is a perfect size for starting out. It is more forgiving and easier to control. It is slow enough to keep up with if it is hit too hard (which is a common practice among beginners). It will also allow for a faster power workout when your skill level is up to it.
For beginners who are forced to use a medium or small bag and are struggling for control, it may be easier if air is removed from the bag- but do NOT let the leather crease. Releasing some air will make it slightly softer and easier to control.
For advanced users, wanting to go a little faster- Just add a little more air in the bag. Just a few pumps can accelerate to rebound. NOTE: this does run the risk of blowing or damaging the bladder.
Using the Speed Bag:
Bag Areas
The speed bag can be hit from anywhere around it, but it is easiest to view this by dividing the board into four separate areas- the front, the left side, the right side and the back. These four areas will become increasing important as you learn more techniques and new combinations. (See picture right).
Since techniques and combinations can come from all areas around the bag, the angles your fist enters the contact zone, and the angle the bag will take in reaction to your punches, are one of the secrets to control.
Angle of Fist Entry
You want your fist to enter the hitting zone when it is in the correct spot- just after it hits the board and is tilted away from your fist. You will have to do this by timing and the sound of the bag! Your eyes, and the after image of the moving bag, will always be late. You can't really see the actual spot of contact. You have to trust that the bag and your fist are on the correct angle. Regardless of the direction of your punch, you want to contact the bag just after it hits the board and is tilted away from your fist.
Most people punching from the front will see the bag rebound in an "X" pattern, which is typical for front punching, but this changes when the bag is punched from all around. There is no distinct border between the four bag areas. For instance, sometimes your hook punch (which is a side technique) will hit more toward the front of the bag than straight in from the side. Or perhaps your reverse punch hits more toward the side-rear area then directly behind the bag. The bag angle of rebound will reflect that difference. This can affect the timing of your next punch, depending on which of the four areas it comes from. Fortunately the punching angles are pretty standard and you probably don't have to worry about them. But at the advanced level you can alter the angles of fist entry to purposely alter the angle of bag rebound and create some advanced combinations.
Speed Bag Sounds:
Hitting the speed bag creates a unique cadence of accented and unaccented beats as the bag is struck and rebounds against the board. This sound can be an integral part of the training experience and tells you what is happening.
The accented: Or loudest sounds come directly after a fist or elbow strike the bag. The harder you hit the bag, the louder these accented sounds will be.
The unaccented: Or softer beats are created by the bag swinging freely back and forth in-between each strike. The longer the bag swings without being hit, the lower these sounds will be.
Speed Bag Rhythms:
Triplet Rhythm: Or three rebounds, occurs between all techniques that strike the bag from the same side. This is the most common rhythm, created by repetitively hitting the bag after three rebounds. You will see and hear this during most boxing demonstrations or pre-fight interviews, and is probably the easiest for most people to learn. There are three distinct sounds in this pattern. The first is the loudest when the bag smacks the board quickly after being hit. The bag then freely swings to the other side of the board for the next rebound, and then swings back again for the third rebound, which is the softest. This puts the bag in the correct position to be hit again, and the pattern can be repeated. The word "triplet" reflects the three rebounds. You can count this rhythm as "1-2-3, 1-2-3..." When done rapidly it is a very pleasing and distinctive sound. Most people immediately associated this as a speed bag. In fact, this is often called the "Basic Rhythm". The most important feature of the triplet rhythm is to understand that all the punches on the bag come from the same side, such as punching only from the front or only from the back.
Double Punch Rhythm: This rhythm is created by repetitively hitting the bag with Double Punches from the same side. You can use several Front Double Punches (FDP) or several Reverse Double Punches (RDP). They make the same sound. There are several distinct sounds in this pattern. The first is the lead fist and second fist hitting the bag. Both of these are accented and the second fist is usually a little louder. Then the bag freely swings to the other side of the board for the next rebound, and then swings back again for the third rebound, which is the softest. This puts the bag in the correct position to be hit again, and the pattern can be repeated. Since the both fist contacts are accented, it is best to count each as "one". You can count this rhythm as "1-1-2-3, 1-1-2-3..."
Double Bounce Rhythm: There is no requirement to always hit the bag from the same side. You may want to hit the bag from the front, and then from the back. To do this will create a totally different sound, and a unique rhythmic pattern called the double bounce rhythm. This name indicates that there are only two rebounds between the bag strikes. There are a couple of distinct variations on this sound depending on how many fists are involved.
Single Fist Pass Through: A single accented pattern created as one fist hits the bag from the front and the back repetitively. This is a quick sounding rhythm, with the first "punched" beat being the loudest (accented), and then one swinging, or unaccented rebound. The bag is then hit from the other side, so every other beat is accented. An example would be a Front Circle Punch and then a Reverse Single Punch. This is distinctively different than the triplet rhythm, and sounds much faster, because there are only two rebounds between the fist techniques instead of three. You can count this rhythm as; "1-2, 1-2..."
Double Fist Pass Through: This is similar to the Single fist except both fists hit the bag repetitively from opposite sides, and there is a distinctive double accented sound. You can also count this rhythm as; "1-1-2, 1-1-2..." An example would be a Front Double Punch and then a Reverse Double Punch. This rhythm sounds even faster than the single fist pass through, because there are more accented beats.
Fist Rolling Rhythm: This is the fastest sounding rhythm because every rebound is directly off the fist. There are no free swinging rebounds, and all the sounds are accented. This is creating by quickly hitting the bag in succession by either a Front or Reverse Fist Rolling technique. This will sound like a machine gun, and you can count it as: 1-1-1-1.
Overall, these distinctive rhythms can be used individually, but normally are connected to each other in a non-stop array of accented and unaccented sounds. It is easy to hear the stutter in the sound of the double bounce rhythm in comparison to the triplet rhythm, but the sounds can quickly run together until the untrained ear is lost. This is very similar to a drum solo, where the constant connections of sounds hide the individual sticking rudiments that created them.
Rules of Rhythm on the Speed Bag:
Rule 1: If the next punch comes from the SAME side as the last one did, it must occur on an ODD number of rebounds. ( 1, 3, 5, etc.) This explains The Triplet Rhythm, since three is an odd number. It also explains the Fist Rolling, which occurs after one rebound.
Rule 2: If the next punch comes for the OTHER side, then if must occur on an even number of rebounds. ( 2, 4, 6, etc.) This explains The Double Bounce Rhythm. This rule covers hitting front-to-back and side-to-side.
Rule 3: If the next strike comes from DIFFERENT side than the last one did, it may occur after an odd or even number of rebounds. We do not always hit front to back or side to side, but may hit with a front punch and then a side punch. (Or a reverse punch (from behind) and then a side punch. Or a side punch, and then a front punch). And many of the techniques have two fists or an elbow connecting within the technique. It all happens very quickly. Rule 3 also covers some of the variations created by the angles of fist entry and bag rebound.
Speed and Timing:
The "speed" bag should really be called the "control" bag. You can't go fast until you can control the force of your punching and the size of your swinging movements. The speed bag helps you learn to create and control punching power, which is a direct result of movement speed rather than strength. Punching hard and punching fast is NOT the same thing.
Equal force in each punch is important to keep the bag going at a constant speed. Punching harder or softer will affect the bag speed. If the bag slows down or speeds up, it will change the timing needed for the next technique. This happens incredibly fast, so equal force in each punch is a key factor to keeping it going. Once you can control your swinging motions and punch with equal force with each contact, you can start working on your punching speed.
As you punch faster you will not be punching harder, but will be punching more efficiently with smaller movements. One of the secrets to speed is to make smaller circles with your fists. For example, if your fist hits the bag and makes a 12 inch circle, then it will return to the hitting zone faster if it only makes a 9 inch circle. Another secret to speed of movement is to relax. Creating stiff muscular tension in your shoulders and arms as you punch will only make you stiffer, not faster. Remember that a loose flexible whip can travel much faster than a stiff cane of wood.
Timing:
This refers to getting your fists on the bag at the correct moment. And you have to do this many times in succession. The secret is controlling your punching force and swinging speed to make it all happen when it is supposed to. Since all of this is happening rapidly, you will quickly find your ears are the greatest help in timing. The bag sound will be your cue to speed and timing. That is the single most unique feature of the speed bag. Trust the sound.
Skill Levels:
Make sure your equipment is correct for you or it may retard your progress. The two main reasons for failure are (1) the bag is too small or fast for your level of ability and (2) The bag is not at the proper level, probably too high.
Make sure it is set correctly or you will use an improper swing to hit it. A bag set too high will create very poor swing motions, and you may find yourself constantly hitting the bag on the "upstroke", making it fly up off the swivel. Or you may move your arms up and down to reach the bag. This may work for a simple boxing workout hitting from the front area of the bag, but a "high bag" makes it very difficult to pass the fists through to all sides of the bag. The belly of the bag (fattest part) is set at mouth level. This alignment will let the fists make contact at the proper location in your swing, and let them easily pass straight out and back through the speed bag.
Another reason for failure is hitting too hard. A speed bag can rebound several times by just the weight of your hand contacting it. Hit easy! Think control bag rather than speed bag. A good tip to gain control over the speed and force of your punching is to count the rebounds. The bag can quickly outrun your ability to count, so you will have to go slow and easy. As you gain control, you can go a little faster. You are striving for repetitive consistency in speed and power.
Start with only a few Single Fist punching techniques from the front of the bag, such as the Front Circle Punch (FCP) and Front Straight Punch (FSP). Front Fist Rolling is also fairly easy for beginners.
Four Easy Steps for Beginners:
1. Hit the bag once. Stop the Bag. Get ready and hit it again. You are hitting a non-moving bag. This eliminates any need to control your punching force or speed. Hit it as hard as you want. Just stop the bag and reposition before you hit it again.
2. Hit the bag. Let it swing until it stops hitting the Board. Hit the Bag. Just before it stops, hit it again. This eliminates any need to control you force, since you will wait until it almost stops before hitting it again. Watch the angles of the bag rebounding. When the bag almost stops, and is angled away from you, hit it again.
3. Hit the bag and count the rebounds. Start with a higher number of rebounds, such as seven (7). Punch again after the bag makes that same number of rebounds. After a few workouts, reduce the number of rebounds to five (5). In this step you will have to start watching your punching force and swing moments - for you need to be ready to punch after the correct number of rebounds. This level starts to let your ears take control of your timing. Start hearing and feeling the bag beat. You will find this is best, for your eyes are always slightly behind the bags location.
4. Hit the bag after three (3) rebounds. This is the Triplet Rhythm. Start this slowly. When you can do this repetitively, try and go a little faster. But always emphasize control.
Beginner Tips:
Try to increase your punching speed by swinging SMALLER, not harder. It is easier if you relax. Muscular tension will eventually reduce your repetitive punching speed.
Strive to punch "into" the belly of the bag, not "downward" on top of the belly area. It is sometimes hard to tell this on your own, for you don't see your own shoulder and elbow raising up and down. Punching in an up and downward action rakes your fist down the front area of the bag, rather than punching into it. You want to be making more of a circling motion from the elbow. The best tip is to make the bag contact the highest part of your fist motion. If possible, have someone watch from the side to see if your whole arm is moving up and down, rather than a circling motion from the elbow.
Beginners should rename the "speed" bag to a "control" bag". Speed will come with control. That happens automatically. Trying to go fast as a beginner will only cause frustration and you may always be starting and stopping the bag. Every punch will be harder than the previous one, as you are struggling to catch the bag. Muscular tension in your shoulders and arms will increase, making it worse. After 4 or 5 punches, you're lost and have to start over.
To keep the bag going consistently, every punch should be of equal force. This keeps the bag going repetitively at the same speed. If you hit harder, it will go faster. Using equal force is the key to improving your rhythm & timing.
If you are just hitting from the front area of the bag, you might move back slightly which will make the fist contact later in your arm extension. This will reduce the size of your follow through motion and help control.
Moving your distance close and back away from the bag also helps you learn to adjust your timing for variable distances to the target.
Advanced Skill Level:
With advanced skill, you have developed good control over your punching force and swinging motions. You can vary your speed, punching as fast or slow as you want and keep the bag going for several minutes. Perhaps you can do a few other fist techniques or elbow strikes. Whatever your skill, you are ready to advance on to learn new things.
Advance User Tips:
Start learning new techniques. Perhaps all the front fist techniques or some elbow strikes. There are outward, inward and downward elbow strikes. They will combine with the other front techniques after an odd number of rebounds.
Consider using other areas of the bag, and learning the three reverse techniques. They are the Reverse Single Punch (RSP), the Reverse Double Punch (RDP) and the Reverse Fist Roll (R-Roll).
Learn to create combinations from different bag areas. Try and "link" the front and reverse bag area techniques together. Begin by passing a single fist "through the bag" to hit from behind. Keep the elbow up. Use a Front Circle Punch which hits the side of the fist, and move the fist straight through. You do not have to purposely duck your fist under to go behind the bag! Slow motion analysis reveals that the bag is touching the board and over your hand when you extend your fist straight out. When the bag descends off the board your fist is already behind it. The secret is the raised elbow position and contacting the belly of the bag. These combinations occur after an even number of rebounds. You can use either four or two rebounds. Two rebounds will create the single fist pass through rhythm.
If you have problems going from the front to back, start the combination from behind the bag and do the reverse punch first. The reverse technique is usually more difficult since you can not see that contact area. (See picture on right).
Try passing both fists through the bag, from a Front Double Punch (FDP) to Reverse Double Punch (RDP), shown below. Do the front double punch and extend your fists straight out by extending the elbows. Then bring your fists straight back. This is normally a smooth movement and the fists should not hesitate or stop anywhere in the movement. This will create the double fist pass through rhythm. If going front-to-back is difficult, start with the fists behind the bag and do the Reverse Double Punch first. TIP: the spacing between both fists should be the same while extending out in the Front Double Punch (FDP) and coming back in the Reverse Double Punch (RDP). (See picture below on right).
Try combining the reverse techniques with the elbow strikes. You can do this with either a single fist or double fist. The secret is understanding that once the elbow hits the bag, the rest of the elbow technique IS fist contacts. Just let it pass through like before. For example, in the Outward-Triple Elbow Strike, the elbow hits the bag first in an outward direction, then the lead fist and second fist make contact with one rebound in between. The two fists after the elbow hits could also be a Front Double Punch. (See picture on above).
Try combining the reverse techniques with the elbow strikes. You can this with either a single or double fist technique.
The secret to creating combinations from all around the bag is learning to maximize your linking ability. (Linking = passing your fist(s) "through the bag" to another area) The key techniques for linking are the Double Fist Techniques: Front Double Punch (FDP), Reverse Double Punch (RDP) and Side Double Punch (SDP). You can always link, or pass through to another area, the (1) Lead Fist in the technique, (2) Second Fist in the technique or (3) Both fists from a Double Punch. Depending on how many techniques you are proficient with, these three linking options can open up hundreds of punching combinations.
Once you can pass your fists through the bag from front to back smoothly, consider learning the side punching techniques. The are the most difficult to mix in with the front techniques and are the main reason for Rule of Rhythm.
Specialty Workouts:
Once you can punch repetitively with speed and power, you can begin targeting specific benefits or training results. You can do this by manipulating some factors of the equipment and how you use it. For general fitness you can use the normal speed bag stance facing front. But for Boxers and Martial Artists, you may want to use your defensive fighting stance and use the following guides for any single punching technique or combination. Be sure and use hand protection, for these workouts will put maximum impact on your hands.
Strength:
Use larger size bags. They are heavier, create more resistance and require more punching force to keep them going. Since they are slower, it will also be easier to count the rebounds. Slightly less air may add more benefit, since it will take more force to get the rebounds
Create a single punch workout that uses the number of rebounds as a guide. From whatever stance you want, hit the bag as hard as you can and count the rebounds. Then add at least one rebound. As an example, perhaps you throw a jab, hook or Circle Punch at a 12x9 bag and it makes six rebounds before it stops hitting the board. Create a focused workout such as 3 sets of 10 single punches, where each punch must produced 6 rebounds. Less than six rebounds will not count. After a few workouts, add another rebound, so now the bag must make 7 rebounds. You must hit harder, with more force, to make more rebounds. Do this for each punch or hand technique you want to focus on. For added targeting ability, do not stop the bag after the required number of rebounds is reached.
Do the above workout for two or three punch combinations, where each punch in the combination must create the required number of rebounds. As soon as the correct number is reached, sight the bag and throw the next technique. As an example, choose a three punch combination such as a Left Jab, Right Cross and Left Hook. Each punch in the combination must make at least 6 rebounds. From boxing stance, execute the left jab, once you count six rebounds, target the moving bag as it slows down and execute the Right Cross. Again count until the bag rebounds six times, then target and execute the Left Hook for six rebounds. Try to maintain correct balance natural movements. If any punch in the combination does not produce six rebounds, start the combination over again. Do this for 3 sets of 10 combinations. After a few workouts, add another rebound.
Speed:
You can do speed focused workouts on any size bag, but bag control may be an issue depending on your bag. Larger bags will not go as fast as smaller bags. It may help to consider that each speed bag, not matter what size, has three general speeds. The First is SLOW, or warm-up speed, the second is NORMAL or workout speed, and the third is FULL speed. On any size bag, most people can only maintain full speed for a short period of time.
Use progressively smaller bags, which go faster due to shorter rebound arch.
Reduce the swinging movement of your punching techniques. Swing SMALLER, not harder!
Interval workouts: These workouts require good control of punching technique and the ability to keep the bag going fast for at least 30 seconds or one minute. They will also require a timer and perhaps a coach or workout partner to call out time or count punches.
Workout Examples:
Timed workout 1. Hit the bag as fast as possible for 30 seconds or one minute. Count the number of punches you do in that time period. Then increase the number of punches in the same time frame. This is easier if you pick one punch to count, such as the right Front Circle Punch (FCP) or Right Front Straight Punch (FSP). Start with that punch and count that punch every time it connects during the time interval. As an example, perform your basic rhythm or preferred punching pattern and count the Right Front Straight Punches. Using 1 minute as a time interval, start punching with the Right Front Straight Punch and begin your normal punching sequence. Go as fast as you possibly can during the interval, counting the right straight punches. Perhaps you did 40 Right Front Straight Punches (FSP) in one minute. Great. Now reproduce that same number for three 1-minute sets. After a few workouts, add another punch, so you have to do at least 41 Right Front Straight Punches (FSP). Keep increasing the number of punches during the same time interval. You have to punch faster to be successful.
Timed workout 2. Similar to the last workout, but reverse the measurement. Instead of setting a "time interval" of measurement, use a pre-determined "Number of Punches" and see how long it takes to do them. Then try to reduce the time it takes. As an example, Start with the Right Front Straight Punch (FSP) and perform your normal punching pattern as fast as you can until you execute 30 Right Front Straight Punches. Perhaps that took 40 seconds. Do this again for three sets always executing 30 of the chosen punch. You must complete them within the time interval. After a few workouts, reduce the time interval. Then try to do 30 Right Front Straight Punches (FSP) in 35 seconds or 30 seconds. The Trick is you must hit faster to be successful.
The above speed workouts are similar but offer some variety. In WO1 you increased the number of punches within a pre-determined time interval, and in WO2 you decrease the time interval required to perform a pre-determined set number of punches. In either case you have go punch faster to meet the goal. Try to keep bag inflation standard for these speed workouts. Don't cheat yourself by over inflating the bag, which will make it go faster.
Endurance and Cardiovascular workouts:
Punch the bag continuously for longer periods of time. Vary the speed of your punching. Start at slow or warm up speed for 30-60 seconds or 40-50 punches. Then increase to your normal workout speed, which is where you feel the most comfortable and in full control. Stay at this speed for one or two minutes. Then jump to full speed, and go as fast as possible on that bag. Here you are almost out of control and will feel the shoulder arm burn quickly. Back off down to workout speed until the burn goes away. Go back and forth between workout speed and full speed several times. Three minutes of this is a long time! Every few workouts increase your time by 15 or 30 seconds. To easily establish a pre-set time interval, you can punch to 3 or 4 minutes of music. Mix a few songs together with varying tempo.
Speed is not the issue in these workouts, so use larger bags for your endurance. It takes more force and effort to keep the larger bags going and you may fatigue quickly, and with these workouts, you are trying to enter that zone of fatigue. Advanced users may be able to get these benefits from smaller bags because your bag skill can keep it going longer. But regardless of speed bag skill, the goal of these workouts is to increase your physical efforts, not necessarily your speed bag ability.
Since you are punching for longer periods of time, the routine of punching can get boring. Add variety by focusing on one arm punching. During the routine, use the left arm only for 6-10 punches and then the right arm. Vary the number, and change arms repeatedly. You may think it is a math test, but the variety of constantly changing will take you mind off the drudgery of punching for three or more minutes, and the increasing burn in the shoulder muscles.
To punch for longer times, learn to do the elbow strikes. These require more shoulder rotation and body movement. Elbow striking actions will help relieve the burning sensation in the shoulders and arms. After 8-10 elbow strikes, the shoulder and arm pain should be relieved enough to change back to fist punching techniques. With elbow strikes, you can extend you non-stop punching time to 5 or 6 minutes or longer. Along with this, if you are only punching from the front of the bag you can let your elbows sink lower than you normally might, since you are not passing the fist through to other sides. If you CAN pass your fists through, be sure and raise the elbow when you do, or you may miss-hit the bag.
Martial Arts training on the Speed Bag:
The speed bag is very effective for martial artists. Unfortunately, it is often overlooked in their training dojo or training facilities. Maybe it is seen more as boxing equipment, or it was not a normal part of training programs from the ancient orient. Regardless, hand speed, rhythm and timing are also required in any form of martial arts. Training ideas for this area are offered here
Learn how the speed bag works and how you can practice your hand techniques or kicking techniques
To practice specific techniques or combinations begin from any or your preferred defensive stance. Be sure and adjust your distance for any forward or retreating body motions
The speed bag can be use for any of the open hand techniques and punches, such as fist punches, Elbow Strikes, knife hands or Ridge hands.
The speed bag can be used for certain kicking techniques. It works best for the Roundhouse, Hook and Crescent kicks. (See picture below). Remember, the three rules of rhythm will also apply for kicking combinations.
Repetitive roundhouse kicks with the right leg will follow each other after an odd number, such as 5 rebounds, since each comes from the same side of the bag.
A right leg Hook Kick followed by a right leg Roundhouse kick (off the same chamber) will require and even number, such as 4 or 6 rebounds. That is because the roundhouse kick will return on the opposite side from the hook kick.
Warning! The board is very close to the foot! Use larger bags for kicking. The belly or target area is further underneath the board. You may also want to increase this distance by adding an "S" hook onto the swivel. You may want to tape the open ends of the "S" to keep it from coming off.
Footwork and the Speed Bag:
Since the bag is fixed and doesn't move away from you or sideways, it is more difficult to practice footwork. But the following will help focus on your punching footwork. From a defensive stance with your left or right leg forward, start very close to the wall nearest your back
Depending on your ability, choose a punching technique or a two, three or four combination. Beginners can use a single punch, such as a jab or backfist. Those with more experience might use a double jab, right cross combination.
Now start punching and begin your circling shuffle steps. Maintain your balance and step correctly. Do not cross your feet. Keep moving around the bag until you reach the other wall. This should be 5 or 6 steps depending on your step size. Now go back the other way, while completing the punching combinations. Try to blend all your motions with the bag rhythm and flow of movement.
Since your footwork is the focus, and not bag skill, you can use any number of rebounds. Start slow and punch only at half power to get the feel. Resist the desire to increase punching power and bag speed until your footwork can flow smoothly with your rhythm.
Hitting the Speed Bag to Music:
The sound and rhythms of the bag can be used to punch along with music. Besides being a lot more fun, punching to music will also allow you to punch for a given amount of time at a constant speed.
Choosing the Right Music
It does not matter what kind of music you like. Choose any song you would dance to. Feel the beat of the song and tap your foot to it. Your foot hits the floor "on the beat". Now punch the bag from the front and let your fist hit the bag when your foot would tap the floor. Adjust your punching speed so your fist hits the bag directly "on the beat". Now you are punching "in straight time" to the music.
For Front Fist Rolling (F-Roll), begin the roll and adjust your punching speed to feel the bag beat in time with the music. You may sense four punches between every foot tap, or main music beats. Relax, these are 16th notes.
To add in double fist techniques, such as the Front Double Punch (FDP), time your punch so the second, (last fist) of the technique hits the bag "on the beat". In music parlance, the lead fist would be a "pick up beat". If using a triple elbow strike, the first few parts are also pick up beats.
With added skill from techniques all around the bag, your combinations can also create unique rhythmic patterns that fit perfectly to music. With this skill, you can begin punching in a "syncopated beat pattern" from all around the bag. Syncopated simply means several accented punches within the combinations will land slightly off the main music beat, but every few measures of music a main punch will connect "on the beat" with the music. It is slightly more advanced, but not to worry. Most people easily feel when the beat is correct. The trick is to constantly adjust your punching speed to adjust your bag beats to the music.
Mats
Good martial art mats are an essential item for people training in the grappling or throwing arts because a good set of mats will help prevent them from injuring themselves when they are training.
Types of Mats:
Standard Mats: This type of mat is similar to what you would find in high school gymnasiums. They are usually square or rectangular in shape and have a foam core with a vinyl covering. The vinyl covering can come with a Tatami pattern which helps to prevent the mat from slipping as well as users from slipping on the mat. (The use of the term Tatami in this case should not be confused with traditional Japanese Tatami mats which are made of woven straw and traditionally packed with straw). These martial art mats usually need a frame to fix them in place. This makes them more appropriate as permanent floor coverings for training areas.
Jigsaw Mats: Also known as puzzle mats, jigsaw mats are probably the most common type of martial art mat. They are portable and are very easy to set up. Their interlocking, jigsaw-shaped edges ensure that the mats stay locked together and thus do not require any further framing to secure the mats. When choosing a jigsaw style martial art mat recommend they find one that has strong interlocking edges. Mats that are made of weaker foam can have very flimsy edges which can result in the mats coming apart during training. This can be annoying and can lead to injury.
Roll out mats: This form of mat is similar to the standard mats except they are slightly thinner and have the capacity to be rolled up to save space. Some companies offer custom sizes to accommodate training areas in the home or martial arts academy.
General Considerations for All Types of Mats:
Firmness: Mats vary greatly in terms of firmness. Softer mats can slow down your mobility by "giving" too much under your feet. Harder mats can increase the chances of injury. Choose a level of firmness that suits your training needs.
Non-slip surface: Make sure the mat sits securely on the surface that you intend for it to be on. Also, the training surface should not be too slippery as to predispose you to injury.
Non-grazing surface: Check to make sure that the surface of the mat will not give you unwanted scratches or grazes.
Hygiene: The martial arts mat should be able to be cleaned easily. As you will most likely be sweating on the mat this is a very important consideration. Some mat suppliers offer specialized cleaning products for their mats.
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